Saturday, January 19, 2013

Vietnam Days 4 And 5: Ha Noi to Hoi An


After three early mornings in a row I was really hoping for a nice long sleep Thursday night but although I was in bed early I didn’t fall asleep until quite late and forced myself out of bed early enough to enjoy breakfast. I then returned to my room where I took forever and a day to pack before checking out of my room.

The slow pace of the morning continued all day. It was my last chance to see Ha Noi but really there isn’t all that much to see there. I sat downstairs in the lobby with Jacob and Claire, two of the people from my room, for quite a while before Claire and I decided to head out. We walked towards the lake and then to the water puppet theatre.  I had heard that water puppets were a must see so I approached the box office to learn that there was only one show before I was meant to leave the city and the cheap seats had sold out. The good seats really weren’t that expensive, they were about $5 but I could eat three meals with that amount of money so I decided to pass on the water puppets. Claire said I wasn’t missing out on much and it was all she could do to stay awake when she went.

From there Claire and I wandered aimlessly for several hours. We stopped along the way for some sandwiches that Claire had been raving about. It was kebab meat with like 8 different types of cabbage on top. It wasn’t really my cup of tea but I’m really making an effort to try new things this trip so I managed to eat the whole thing without pulling too many faces. We walked a bit further when I suggested we walk to the train station to make sure I know how to get there because last night I walked with Jacob to go buy my ticket and he lead the way. We bumped into Jacob along the way and had a bit of a chat before continuing on. We found the train station without any problems at all, which gave me a sense of relief, it seemed so confusing the night before because we kept zigzagging across the street but really it was more or less a straight line.

We continued to walk in no particular direction when we bumped into one of the guys who worked at our hostel in a coffee shop. He invited us to join him so we did. He asked us if we wanted anything to drink I said no thank-you but still ended up with a drink in front of me. I really don’t like hot drinks but I had to at least try it, it would be rude not to, even though I said I didn’t want anything. It was peach flavoured tea and I guess it was okay. I had a few sips and Claire ended up finishing most of it after she drank her iced coffee.

We were both pretty tired at this point so we made our way back to the hostel. I no longer had a room so I hung out in the lobby where I was constantly being badgered by the staff. I know they’re just trying to be friendly but I really don’t need a new cup of (hot) water every 3 minutes, I also don’t need 8 members of staff all asking me the same 10 questions one after another.  Jacob came back from his excursion so I chatted with him for a bit before he went upstairs for a nap and I was left alone with the staff again.

The time for my train was drawing nearer so I head out to eat an early dinner and to stock up on snacks. I tried to find the noodle place I had eaten at twice before but it was nowhere to be found. I’m not sure if she only opens at nighttime or if she moves her little set-up from time to time.  Either way I wasn’t getting my street noodles. I searched for a substitute for a while before giving up and going to the cafĂ© I went to on the first day. I ordered fried rice but they were all out. How does an Asian restaurant run out of rice? That just doesn’t make sense to me at all! I ended up ordering a waffle with ice-cream and spending way more on dinner that I had planned.

I head back to the hostel, grab my bags, and start the trek to the train station. I some how manage to make it there with only a handful of near death experiences and feel a sense of relief. Now I just need to figure out which platform I’m leaving from, far more challenging a task than I had previously imagined. There was no signage anywhere indicating where I should go to catch this train. I'm not worried though because my train doesn’t leave for almost an hour and I have plenty of time to figure it out. I find three women with badges around their necks and ask them for help. Two of them walk away without a word and thankfully the third stays behind while I fish out my ticket. She looks at my ticket then points at the waiting room and says number 6. I head to the waiting room and a short while later door number 6 opens. I ask every staff member along the way if I am getting on the right train and they all confirm that I am. After the Japan fiasco I really don’t want to risk it.

I settle into my bed and pray there is at least one other backpacker in my cabin. No such luck. I am in a cabin with four very loud Vietnamese people. I make myself comfortable and try to drown out the noise while I read my book. I read for a few hours and then decide I should try to get to sleep. I wake up frequently through out the journey, one time I even found there were 8 Vietnamese men sitting on the two bottom bunks talking loudly. Where did all these people come from? They were not here when I feel asleep and this is a 6-person cabin and there is someone across from me and someone above me, that makes 11 people. What the hell?

Eventually we stop I ask if we are in Da Nang (I read online we should arrive in Da Nang around 10:30 but the lady at the station told me 6 so I’m not sure what to think) and no one answers. I keep repeating ‘Da Nang? Da Nang?’ eventually someone tells me no and they all shuffle off the train and I have the cabin all to myself.

I try to get some more sleep but its no use, I'm too worried about missing my stop so I stay awake and do some reading instead. A few hours later we pull into Hue, I manage to see a sign clearly marking the station, which is a miracle, as this hadn’t happened at any other station and I now have some idea of where I am. According to what I read online Da Nang should be the next stop but you can never trust the Internet. The train stops a few times but I can never tell if it is stopping to let people off or not.  I keep poking my head out of my cabin looking for someone to ask but there is no one around. I keep telling myself it’s okay but I’m starting to freak out.

I stop reading, put my iPad away, and stare intently out the window to make sure I don’t miss my stop. The train slowly inches its way around the coastline offering some pretty spectacular views along the way. As time goes by things start to look more built up and the forest turns into shanties, which eventually turn into houses and apartment buildings. We pull into a station around 11:30 I poke my head out of the cabin and many people are scurrying about. I make eye contact with a woman and say ‘Da Nang?’ she tells me yes and rushes over to help me with my bags so I don’t miss my stop. I thank her and give her a wave as I walk across the tracks into the station. Someone from my hotel is supposed to pick me up but I told them I would be arriving an hour ago, I pray they are still waiting and thankfully they are because stupid me didn’t write down any information about the hotel and I can’t even remember the name of it.

We drive for just under an hour before arriving in Hoi An. I am greeted with a glass of fresh orange juice and ushered to my room. I get myself settled in then head out in search of food. Unlike my first day in Ha Noi I want to eat street food on a chair made for a three year old. I wander around town looking at the different shops along the way. I wander for about two hours and don’t see any signs of street food and now I’ m starting to get dizzy so I head to a restaurant. I still haven’t tried the Pho so that’s what I order. I should have gone with my gut and ordered noodles, I was not a fan of Pho, I ate it all though like a good little girl.

With food in my belly I headed back to the hotel to rest my feet for a little bit. I seem to have made it just in time because about 20 minutes later it started raining down buckets and doesn’t stop for the rest of the night. I contemplated heading out for dinner but I popped my head outside and realized I wouldn’t be able to walk 10 feet without getting soaked right through I decided to eat at the hotel restaurant and was surprised to find it was actually reasonably priced.  I ordered cao lau, a Hoi An specialty. This was definitely a better choice than Pho, it was sooo good. I found myself wanting more after I had finished.

I spent the rest of the evening finishing off my second book of the day and catching up on TV shows. Not exactly the most productive couple of days but they were enjoyable and I tried new things both days so I would consider them to be a success.

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